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Salumi Martina Franca
Francesco
Martina Franca, a town in the heart of Puglia, is known for its Capocollo di Martina Franca, lightly smoked cold cuts of pork from the neck and shoulder of the pig. In Martina Franca, the capocollo has been given DOP status, but not all capocollos are the same. The capocollo of the Caroli family is known in the region as the crème de la crème.
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Pigs between the olive trees
When we arrived at the house where owner Stefano was born, we were shown around the pig farm. He showed us his 300 black pigs rummaging around between the olive trees. These pigs are of the Nero Pugliese type, an indigenous black pig breed. Stefano then took us to the stables, where the little pigs were nursing with their mother. After a short drive, not far from Stefano's birth home, we arrived at the salumificio. Here, the pigs are processed into cured meat products. We were shown around by Stefano's son-in-law, Francesco.
Artisinal and by hand
Everything is artisanal and done by hand. Nothing is automated because, as Francesco proudly says, he wants to be on top of every part of the process. Quantity is not important here, only quality is what counts. This philosophy means that the Caroli's have become part of the Slow Food movement that is getting more and more attention in Italy. We watch the pork being rubbed with coarse sea salt and black pepper and being hanged to dry.
Wafer-thin
Finally, it's time, we can taste! This capocollo is amazing, the wafer-thin slices melt on your tongue. The taste is reminiscent of the taste of lightly smoked ham, but the structure is much softer, and the fat distribution is more evenly distributed in the meat than prosciutto (Italian cured ham). An unparalleled taste, which you certainly do not encounter back home. Although it is possible to cut this capocollo by hand, it is recommended to use a meat slicer. The capocollo is at its best when cut wafer-thin. After our experience at the Salumificio, we have decided to purchase a meat slicer for this capocollo. In Italy it is the most common thing to own a meat slicer. When we told them that people in the Netherlands generally don’t have one, it turned out to be almost as strange as having a cappuccino after dinner...
More than just Capocollo
Francesco makes two types of Capocollo, from their own black pigs and from Italian pink pigs. The pink pigs are purchased by the Salumificio, but not before they have undergone an extensive quality inspection. Only pigs raised 100% in Italy, from suppliers known to the Carolis, reach Francesco. Both types of capocollo are processed in the same way. The salumificio of the Carolis does not only make capocollo with which they have become so famous. The whole pig is used for pancetta (pork belly), Guanciale (the pig's cheek, known from the Carbonara) and much more!
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