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Easter in Caltanissetta
Settimana Santa
In certain parts of Italy, Easter is more important than Christmas. This is especially evident in Sicily, where, partly due to Spanish influences, the week leading up to Easter is dedicated entirely to processions and other Easter festivities. During this time, life-sized biblical scenes are carried through the city, culminating in the cathedral after a long journey. In Italy, they call this week "Settimana Santa" (the Holy Week). Since many of our farmers are off during Settimana Santa, we took the opportunity to go to Caltanissetta for a few days. The Easter celebrations in central Sicily had been on our bucket list for a while.
On Wednesday, we met Pascal, an Italian who grew up in Paris with a Pugliese father and a Sicilian mother. After spending the first 30 years of his life in Paris, he felt a strong pull towards Sicily and decided to live opposite his mother's ancestral home. He introduced us to the history of the Easter tradition in Caltanissetta, and in the evening, we joined him for the procession with the small floats. Unfortunately, due to the rain, this procession did not take place, but the result was perhaps even more special. The entire procession gathered in the cathedral to take shelter and, most importantly, to make music.
The big floats are the highlight of the day. Originally, each guild had its own procession float with a specific biblical scene related to Easter. These floats are still owned by the masons, the hairdressers, the cafe owners, etc. According to Pascal, it was no problem to take a break to eat in between since the procession would last all evening. And he wasn't kidding, as when we left our restaurant around half-past eleven, the processions were still in full swing. They were only concluded with fireworks around two o'clock in the morning.
Good Friday promised us the highlight of the week. The procession of the Cristo Nero (Black Christ). During this procession, a large float with a dark wooden image of Jesus is carried through the city, and everyone remains silent. While the procession the day before was accompanied by an almost inexhaustible number of brass bands, during the procession of the Black Christ, you can hear complete silence. The procession members all walk barefoot, wearing purple robes and carrying a candle. Combined with the 13-degree weather and rain that evening, it must have been quite challenging. For us, it was nonetheless absolutely worthwhile!
Beyond the official festivities, what impressed us the most was the sense of community. This is a week that everyone in this region looks forward to for a long time. During this week, the most delicious food is enjoyed, the best wine is drunk, and life is lived to the fullest. The entire village turns out to watch the processions, but above all, to see each other. Before our Cristo Nero played such a prominent role, this period was celebrated as the beginning of spring. Even then, there was feasting, eating, and drinking. For Sicilians, any reason is reason enough for a celebration, in that respect, we understand Pascal all too well...
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